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GUNS Magazine May 2010 - Page 68

• JEFF JOHN • cleAN sceNe There are a lot of “right ways.” f the myriad products for cleaning firearms, virtually all of them O work well and, not surprisingly, work best matched to specific jobs. Here are some I find very effective. First, the foundation of gun cleaning is the rods and jags and an investment here in top-notch equipment is truly worthwhile. I prefer 1-piece rods long enough to clean from the breech and one 44" in length covers most target rifles. The less expensive 33" rods will often work just as well if you have mostly sporting rifles. Make sure they have a brass muzzle guard for those times when you clean from the muzzle, such as on an M1 Garand or a 94 Winchester and especially on your handgun rods. Stay away from segmented rods and rods made from aluminum or brass. Aluminum or brass can hold grit and damage the barrel. Segmented rods can come loose and damage the barrel. Carbon fiber rods like the ones from Tipton or coated rods like the Dewey’s are good choices. Plain stainless steel rods from Kleen Bore or Pro Shot are excellent (I’ve been using mine for 15 years). The common thread size for accessories is 8-32. Something simple like common thread sizes seems superfluous, but having a combination of 10-32 (mostly used for black powder accessories today) and 8-32 equipment gets annoying real fast. Outers used to be 10-32, but converted to 8-32 in the early 2000s. Tools Use a jag for the bore to ensure the patch covers more surface area. I do a lot of maintenance at the range (especially shooting black powder) and a shooter’s box is handy. Both MTM and Midway USA offer empty ones if you already have gear. The MTM is a little more compact and both boxes have padded cradles for rifle cleaning. Midway offers KG Industries offers a full line of bore care products good also for the carbon build-up on AR-15s as well as general care. KG-4 oil is top notch. KG also offers firearm finishes and this polymer-frame FNP 9mm is finished in Flat Tan Air Cure, a hard, flexible durable coating which doesn’t involve heat to cure. one with virtually everything you might want for cleaning a rifle. I’ve added button jags and brushes for handguns to the full assortment of rifle jags and brushes included. The box is big enough and light enough for the addition of other sundries. One piece of equipment most of us use far too long is the brush. Bronze brushes wear out quickly, so change them on a regular basis. If the new brush feels like it has a lot of grab, you know you’ve waited too long. The dirty solvent should be blown off the brush after you’re finished with something like Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber or similar ones from KG Ind., or Shooter’s Choice. Some aggressive copper removers, like Barnes CR-10, are better used with nylon brushes. With all solvents, I wear nitrile gloves, purchased at the auto parts or hardware store. It’s cheap insurance, especially with the more toxic solvents. A truly useful item for cleaning guns I shoot frequently is the Hoppe’s Bore Snake. Caliber specific for handguns, rifles or shotguns, the snake has a weighted end you drop through the bore, a bronze brush and a long, well, “snake.” I add a little PrOlix and pull it through. Amazingly simple and effective. G96 Nitro Solvent comes in an aerosol and is ideal for hard to reach places. Jeff uses it so he doesn’t have to disassemble his Cimarron 1851 Navy .38 Special after every shooting session. The Hoppe’s Bore Snake and a little PrOlix keep revolvers and autos clean with minimal work. It’s especially useful on guns in .22 LR. 68 Solvents I use PrOlix for my cast bullet smokeless powder guns and exclusively with nickel-plated guns, because copper WWW.GUNSMAGAZINE.COM • MAY 2010

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