PISTOLSMITHING TheBrownells’chamferingset allowsyoutooptimizeforcing conesandchamferthechambers foreasierloading. tHe INsIDe scooP oN PIstoLsMItHING tecHNIQUes teD yost J’swithSpegel andVZgrips (leftand top). O ne of the nicest perks of my new gig here is that the boss and I get to spend a little time talking about guns and gunsmithing. We pick each other’s brains and solve a remarkable number of the world’s problems long distance. We recently discussed our mutual love of the J-frame S&W revolvers, which natu- Little Who , O ems J “ ” rally led to a chat about the ways they can be improved. The little J-frames — typically carried much and shot little — are often the focus of “What can I do to make my (fill in the blank) better?” questions. This becomes increasingly true as more Apolishedhammerstirrup.You’renottaking metaloffhere,justsmoothingthingsout. and more gunsmiths specialize, narrowing their focus, with the goal of enhancing profitability. Hence, we see fewer and fewer shops willing or even able to do the little things many J-frames need to run well. The good news is some of the most beneficial modifications can be accomplished by a patient, determined gun owner — one with reasonable problem-solving skills, proper tools, knowledge and some common sense. ne of the fundamental principles of gunsmithing is the things that appear to be simple generally are not, and the things that appear complicated are, well … complicated. Attempting a full-blown action job on a J-frame’s lockwork is best left to an experienced hand. But there are a few simpler modifications that can pay real dividends. If you’re not familiar with basic disassembly procedures, you should first consult a reliable reference. The Kuhnhausen manual, available from Brownells, is a valuable tool, as are the books by our own J.B. Wood on take-down and assembly. There are three things an owner can do on a newer J-frame that will improve the smoothness and “weight” of the trigger without major work. First, change the springs — especially the rebound spring. In the Brownells SWJ200 spring kit, there are three weights of rebound spring, in 13-, 14- and 15-pound versions. The 14-rated spring works best in my opinion. When changing the mainspring, plan on testing your revolver with different types and brands of ammunition to ensure reliable ignition. Any light strikes and it’s back to the factory mainspring. The second “trick” helping to smooth things out is to ME? polish the mainspring stirrup (actually the hammer strut). Newer models have a stamped, squared profile stirrup with sharp, square corners. Most will show chatter marks from contact with the inside surfaces of the spring. Carefully break these edges with a fine file, and polish them with fine abrasive paper. Don’t get carried away here — there’s no need to remove a lot of material. The difference is usually quite noticeable. The third modification really isn’t a modification at all. When you get things put back together, lightly lube any bearing surfaces you can see, and reattach the side plate. Then, and this is the secret part, simply dry fire the revolver — a lot. Of course, all safety considerations apply here. Roy and I both agree this simple step can be as important as any other in establishing a more comfortable relationship with your revolver. Plus, it really helps slickup and settle things inside your gun. Grips & ChAmfers A comfortable firing grip on a small revolver is another way to improve overall effectiveness. I’m not a huge fan of rubber grips, although they are an economical alternative. As an unrepentant wood lover, I’ve always favored Craig Spegel’s beautifully crafted grips. They’re not cheap, and you may have to wait a while, but they will not disappoint. Continued on page 97 24 WWW.AMERICANHANDGUNNER.COM • MARCH/APRIL2014
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